Is an Ignition Charge Coil as part of the Stator under the flywheel. Ground, clean out the hole and replace the spark plug wire with new stranded core wire. If there is the nominal resistance from the pin to
Winding of the Pulse Transformer inside the SSI and the unit has failed. If it is still open, there is likely an open circuit in the secondary Measure the resistance from that pin to ground.
Use what ever force is necessary to pull the spark wire out of the SSI and will find a small brass nail in the bottom center After all the other testing is completed, you can Is still open, it may have a poor connection at the other end of the wire. If it now checks O.K., hook the wire directly to the spark plug until allĮlse is fixed and then replace the connector with a Briggs and Stratton 493880S or 66538S or Stens 135-081. If it is erratic, in the megohm range or open, cut off the bootĪnd re-measure directly from the stranded wire. The resistance should be 4,000 to 7,000 Ohms. Measure the resistance from the connector to theĮngine block. Separated, the meter will read infinite (very high) resistance or an open circuit.Ĭommon problem with Tecumseh engines is the connector at the spark plug. Set it to Ohms and touch the leads together, the needle will go to zero, no resistance as in a short. My $10 analog meter looks like Figure 1-3, MeterA.jpg. This will save a lot of guessing and frustration. If you don’t already have a Volt/Ohm meter, get an inexpensive one at Sears, Walmart or an auto Trying to help you to know the configuration that you are talking about.Ĥ. If you ask for help on one of the many internet yahoo engine or tractor clubs like or, give a complete description of your tractor and engine with the model numbers. Start with the simple and easy tests first, even if you think the failure is elsewhere.ģ. Instead, do some detective work to gather the facts which point to or isolate Realize that it was not the part that failed. Don’t assume an attitude of guessing at what has failed, buying and installing parts only to That is discussed here in Section 1 and are shown in Figure 1-1, 3up.jpg.Ģ. It is the configuration with the trigger pins on the flywheel Like the 610748 but with a single knob cast in the flywheel. Most common 610906, 610848 which have two trigger pins on the outer rim of the flywheel. Ignition, CDI, or 610759 Solid State Ignition, SSI, with the electronics under the flywheel. The first of these engines had true Point / Condenser Magnetos which were followed by the first generation Capacitance Discharge
#3.5 hp tecumseh engine points series#
The Tecumseh engines addressed hereĪre the older, cast iron series starting with the HH100 in about 1967, thru the HH120, OH 120, OH 140, OH 160 and OH 180. Help you place your ignition in the various configurations, a brief history is needed. The Control Module needs a timing signal or trigger pulse to fire the spark. The ignition coil here hasĪ built in ballast resistor. The Control Module, CM that switches a conventional ignition coil in place of the points. Looking for advice.thanks in advance.Pin SSI, 610906,610748, 610855 and Onan NB.( Replacement for the 610759 was added as Attachment 5 on 30 March 2012.)ġ0 years ago, I came across a mid 1980s Chrysler transistorized ignition with parts readily available at competitive pricesĪnd realized that it would make an economical replacement ignition for small air cooled engines. I'd really like to fully understand and run this old gal rather than pay through the nose for a newer engine. The points look OK from what I know not pitted or burnt up although possibly a little dirty? I don't know much about points ignition systems. Could this be a bad condenser? With my cheapo digital multimeter on the 2000 k ohms setting black lead on condenser body red lead on condenser wire the ohms jump rapidly up to infinite reading on my meter. I installed a new spark plug although with the plug out lying against the engine the spark looks a little on the yellow side. I've looked at what I think is everything with the fuel system to no avail. Randomly, after running it several times it took off and revved up running very smooth, then stalled and the next time I tryed starting it the misfires and bogging was back. After cleaning the carb it barely ran any better. I cleaned some rust out of the carb and added an inline fuel filter between the tank and carb. It starts and idles but misfires and will not rev up at all. I got home dunked the lower unit in water and started it up. The previous owner said the engine started great and we didn't have a trash can to dunk it in so we took their word for it. We picked up a 12' boat the other day with a supposedly 1972 sears 3.5hp outboard.
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